For every fashion collection, the development cost—both in terms of time and money—is a significant part of the overall investment. Designers spend weeks, sometimes even months, working meticulously on each collection. Every design is crafted with their vision and creativity, incorporating trends, materials, and intricate details that convey the story behind the collection. This level of dedication makes the process both demanding and rewarding.

The factory’s role goes beyond simply executing a design. They must understand fashion trends and have a sense of the designer’s artistic direction. A truly experienced factory partners with the designer, providing insights and suggestions to make the final product both aesthetically pleasing and functional. Such a level of collaboration ensures that the designer’s vision is fully realized in every stitch and seam.

When I was new to the leather goods industry, I was shocked by the sample cost. The first time I received a sample inquiry (for a wallet collection) from a customer, I checked the cost with our team leader. I found out that the cost for one style was $150. I couldn’t believe what I heard. I thought the cost was for the entire collection, not just one sample. But after confirming twice, it was indeed $150 for one sample

Now I understand why brand leather products are sold at high prices. It’s not just because they use high-end materials, but also because they spend a lot on development. From designing to sampling, every step requires dedication, expertise, and substantial resources. The value lies not only in the finished product but in the journey of turning a creative idea into a tangible item that meets high-quality standards.

I think the sample process is very familiar to an experienced buyer. They know that it’s not easy to complete samples for a collection. To finish the samples for a collection, we need to do the following:

For merchandiser：

. Translate the tech pack for the sample maker..

.Confirm the material, color, size, and every detail with the designer

.Order materials for the samples

.Report all details and problems to the designer or buyer.

.Check samples during production.

.Inspect samples when finished.

.Take photos for records.

This is undoubtedly a challenge for a merchandiser, and I often feel a lot of pressure. I have to watch every detail and manage every supplier. If materials are delayed or there are mistakes, it will cause the sample timeline extends, and even worse the designer may even drop the collection.I don’t wanna fail any customer. I hope to complete each product perfectly .

For Sample maker

. Prepare paper pattern

.cutting main material

.Cut the reinforcement. 

.Sew the pieces together.

.Install hardware

.Paint the edges.

.Check samples

.Pack samples

The sample maker also has an important role. They need strong understanding and imagination to be on the same page as the designer and understand the design concept. An experienced sample maker does not just follow the design blindly; they also provide suggestions to improve functionality and practicality.

Sometimes, the sample maker needs to create a temporary mold, such as for a box-style handbag. There is a plastic mold inside the bag to support its shape, so it looks like a box. To save on sample costs, buyers usually do not request an official mold immediately, as the cost of the mold is very high (around $1142). Instead, we make a temporary mold, which can take about a week or even longer to complete. This is quite a difficult job for the sample maker.

Yes, we do charge a lot for sample costs. One might think this means we earn a lot from it, but that’s not always the case. Sometimes, even after the customer pays a high sample cost, we still end up losing money. Here are some reasons why:

Main Material: For leather goods, the biggest cost is often the main material, especially genuine leather. Typically, a cowhide (20-25 square feet) costs between $71 and $100. If a bag requires 2-3 colors, we need to buy 2-3 skins for sampling, which can cost between $142 and $300. It’s quite a lot, right? Why not just take half or only enough leather for the sample? Well, this is a good question. Unlike buying vegetables at a supermarket, we cannot simply buy a small piece of leather. The designs are unique, and most of the time, the exact leather is not available in the market. We often need to ask the tannery to make customized leather if there is no existing stock, making it impossible to order just a small amount.

Secondary Material – Hardware: Many brands request hardware with their logo or specific patterns. This means we need to create a new hardware mold from the supplier. The cost of the mold depends on the design, typically ranging from $42 to $285. This is also a significant part of the sample cost.

Labor Cost: Labor cost is also a major expense. It usually takes about 10 days, sometimes up to half a month, to complete a batch of samples. If we calculate based on a worker’s daily wage of $50, the labor cost for one batch is around $500 to $750. Of course, we don’t calculate these costs down to every penny. We understand that the development phase is the most challenging for both the factory and the brand, and both sides need to invest. Therefore, we often ignore this part of the cost and do our best to support the customer’s development, providing satisfactory samples to win orders. As a factory, we need profit, but that doesn’t mean profit is our only concern.

Other Costs: There are also other costs, such as lining materials. If we use commonly available lining, this cost is minimal. But if the lining needs to be customized, for example with a logo or pattern, it will incur additional costs. Similarly, if a brand requests screen printing on leather, like a logo or pattern, this could add another $42 to $71 to the cost. There are so many steps and materials involved in creating a sample collection, and it requires a significant investment of time and money. This is why developing leather goods is such a long and costly process.

Given that completing a sample collection is so costly, is there any way to reduce the cost? The answer is yes. We can use substitute materials for the first set of samples. Substitute materials can include PU or leather from factory stock. In my 10 years of experience in the leather goods industry, 90% of sample collections need a second round of revisions, mostly involving adjustments to the style or shape. Sometimes, the finished product does not meet the designer’s expectations, and they may abandon some styles. Therefore, using customized leather or hardware for the first sample can be wasteful. I suggest using similar stock leather or PU to lower the sample cost. This way, customers can see their design come to life and also evaluate the factory’s craftsmanship.

Samples are important part for sales.

Sample costs are an unavoidable expense for every buyer. Although it takes a lot of time and money, it is essential for product sales. Samples can be used for pre-sales or promotions to test the market and see how consumers react. If the response is positive, buyers will be more confident in investing in production and assessing sales potential. With the convenience of e-commerce platforms, buyers can even start pre-sales, which greatly reduces the risk of sales. Therefore, buyers need to choose a leather goods manufacturer that offers high quality and excellent service.